Skardu is our home valley, the capital of Baltistan, and the gateway to K2. It sits at about 2,500 metres on the upper Indus. That is an hour’s flight, or two days’ drive, from Islamabad. Moreover, every expedition to the Baltoro passes through its bazaar. Most visitors come for the mountains beyond it. However, the ones who stay a few days find more. For example, a 16th-century fort stands above the town, and an 8th-century Buddha is carved into a cliff nearby. There are lakes you can boat across, and a cold desert of dunes under 7,000-metre peaks. Then there are two royal valleys an hour or two away, and the second-highest plateau on earth over the rim. In short, this page maps everything we have written about Skardu and Baltistan. Balti guides who grew up here wrote all of it.
Skardu and Baltistan at a glance
| Where | Capital of Baltistan, Gilgit-Baltistan, northern Pakistan, in the upper Indus valley at about 2,500 m |
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| Getting there | A one-hour flight from Islamabad with PIA or Airblue, weather-dependent; or a 16 to 20 hour drive up the Karakoram Highway, split over two days |
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| In and around town | Kharpocho Fort (16th century), the Manthal Buddha Rock (8th century), Satpara Lake (about 2,600 m), the Kachura lakes and Shangrila (about 2,500 m), the Sarfaranga cold desert (about 2,300 m, 30 minutes away) |
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| The valleys | Shigar and its 17th-century fort, 30 km north; Khaplu, its 1840 palace and the 1370 Chaqchan Mosque, 103 km east; Hushe beyond it under Masherbrum, K6 and K7 |
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| Deosai | A 4,114 m plateau 1.5 to 3 hours by jeep, open June to about October, home of the Himalayan brown bear and Sheosar Lake |
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| People | Balti, speaking the westernmost language of the Tibetan family; our guides, cooks and porters are from these villages |
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| Seasons | Treks and Deosai June to September; blossom in April; autumn gold from mid-October; forts, lakes and desert almost all year |
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| Fitness needed | None for the town, lakes, desert and valleys; moderate for the passes; serious for the Baltoro |
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Where Skardu is, and why every trek starts here
Skardu is where the jeep road to Askole begins. Because of that, it is the start of every K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum trek and expedition in Pakistan. The Skardu travel guide is the long version for first-time visitors. Meanwhile, the getting to Skardu guide weighs the spectacular, unreliable flight against the long road. Finally, the Hunza or Skardu comparison is honest about which valley suits a first trip. For the mountains beyond, start with the K2 and Baltoro guide.
Skardu in a day
One loop out of town needs a car, five or six hours and ordinary shoes. It takes in Kharpocho Fort, past the Manthal Buddha Rock and out to Satpara Lake, below the Deosai wall. Then add the Kachura lakes and Shangrila, 30 to 40 minutes away on a sealed road. There are boats on green water under pine and apricot slopes. Finally there is the Sarfaranga cold desert, a half-day 4×4 safari across dunes with snow peaks on the skyline. In any case, all three run almost all year and need nothing beyond the ordinary tourist visa.
Shigar, Khaplu and the Hushe Valley
Two royal valleys frame the town. Shigar, an hour north, is orchards and the restored Shigar Fort, the Palace on the Rock. Moreover, it sits on the road that runs 170 km to Askole and the Baltoro. Khaplu, two to three hours east along the Shyok, has the 1840 palace, now a heritage hotel. Nearby stands the Chaqchan Mosque of 1370. It is also the doorway to the Hushe Valley. Up there are Laila Peak and the granite amphitheatre of the Charakusa Valley under K6 and K7. Beyond them lies Nangma, the Yosemite of Pakistan. The Khaplu and Hushe Valley Tour covers both valleys in three days. Meanwhile, the Masherbrum Base Camp Trek goes on foot from Hushe.
Deosai and Astore
Over the rim south of town lies Deosai, a 4,114-metre plateau of flowers and streams. Sheosar Lake sits on it, deep blue. It is the last refuge of the Himalayan brown bear. Jeeps can reach it from June to about October. Cross it and you drop into Astore and Rama Lake on the far side of Nanga Parbat. On foot, the Burji La climbs straight out of Skardu to the plateau. Moreover, it gives a view of K2 with no Baltoro walk. The Deosai Jeep Safari runs the full traverse from here to Astore. Meanwhile, the Skardu Deosai Tour does the plateau as a day.
Treks from Skardu that are not the Baltoro
Baltistan’s old passes make gentler treks than the glacier. The Thalle La at 4,572 m links Shigar to Khaplu in five to seven days. Moreover, there is no glacier and no rope. The Skoro La is the old foot route from Shigar to Askole, with one hard day over snow. Similarly, the Chogo Lungma Glacier walks out of Arandu to Spantik Base Camp on Baltistan’s quietest ice. The Kutwal Lake trek sits under Haramosh on the Gilgit road. Finally, the Nagma Valley Tour is the easy camping version of the Hushe granite.
When to go
June to September suits the treks, the passes and Deosai. April brings the blossom, and mid-October the gold. Meanwhile, almost any month works for the forts, the lakes and the desert. Our Skardu weather guide goes month by month. In addition, the best time to visit Gilgit-Baltistan guide compares the whole region.
Tours from Skardu
Every trip below starts and ends in our own town, with our own vehicles and Balti guides.
Beyond those, Baltistan has quieter trips that suit a second visit. There is the Skardu Luxury Tour for heritage stays, and the three-day Skardu Deosai Meadow Safari. Likewise, the Nagma Valley Tour sits under Hushe granite. There is also the Manthoka & Khamosh Waterfalls Day Tour, a full day up the Indus into Kharmang for the biggest water in Baltistan. Finally, the Barah Brok Trek leads into an alpine valley almost nobody walks.
Every Baltistan guide on this site
Skardu: travel guide · getting there · weather month by month · Skardu in a day · Kachura lakes and Shangrila · Sarfaranga cold desert
The valleys: Shigar · Khaplu · Laila Peak and Hushe · Charakusa · Nangma · K6 · K7 · Link Sar
Deosai and the passes: Deosai · Astore and Rama Lake · Burji La · Thalle La · Skoro La · Chogo Lungma · Kutwal Lake
Beyond: K2 and the Baltoro · the Hunza Valley · visa, safety and permits
Frequently asked questions about Skardu
